I admit it, I am a AFOL with a severe
MOC addiction. But I like it that way!
In case you do not already know this,
an AFOL is an Adult Fan Of Lego and a
MOC is a My Own Creation. Below are
just some of my MOCs which I have made
with Legos over the years.
Some of these have a parts list and/or
build details. Click on the "BUILD"
button (if there is one) located below
the model description. Parts with
known Lego element ID numbers have
them listed in parenthesis. Feel free
to use differnt pieces or modify the
model to your liking, that is what
Lego is all about!
The reason I like Legos so much is
that you can create something, use it
for awhile, tear it down, and create
something else. No waste, just reuse
material over and over.
What Is It?
First we play a game. This is a
model I built. Shown here it is
collapsed. Can you guess what it
is when expanded? Answer below.
Terrys Mouse maze
Terrys Mini lighthouse
Terrys Organ
Terrys Smiley
Terrys Backgammon
Terrys Radio tower
Terrys Insect
Terrys Cubs logo
Terrys Lego ambulance
Terrys Lego Football field
Terrys Lego Animal rescue
Terrys Lego Bus
Terrys Lego Generi-van
Terrys Lego furniture
Terrys Lego Tram
Terrys Lego Gazebo
Terrys Lego Watertower
Terrys Lego Tree tribute
Terrys Lego Drive In Theater
Terrys Lego School Bus
Terrys Lego Truck
Terrys Lego Centipede
Terrys Lego Mini dragster
Terrys Lego Playground
Playground:
The playground items are easy to create and
require just a few parts.
Merry Go Round:
Use a large plate as a base. I used a
16x16, but a standard baseplate will
also work.
I mounted a 2x2 turntable at the center
of the plate with a single 2x2 brick on
top for a little height.
I put an 8x8 circle piece (Lego #4625582)
on top. Then 2 2x2 bricks on the circle.
I used 4 1x4 plates to make the rails.
Teeter totter:
I used 4 2x4 bricks as a base. Note that
the height of the base will need to be
adjusted if you change the length of the
platform or want to get a different
maximum height for the raised end.
A ball and clamp (Lego #6039479 and #6043656)
combination make a perfect rocker assembly as
it holds place firmly yet allows smooth move
action. A hinge could be used if need be but
would make the movement not as realistic.
I made a 4x30 platform using 6 2x10 plates.
I connected them (underneath) using 2 2x10
plates. You could use a narrower platform
such as a 2x30 if you like. The length of
the platform can also be adjusted. The
shorter the platform length, the higher the
maximum height of the raised end. You should
use a base height and platform length that
is appropriate for your needs.
Mount the center of the platform onto the
ball/clamp assembly at a 90* angle to allow
for proper connection and movements.
Slide:
The actual slide is made from 4 4x6 plates
forming a 6x16 assembly. I put 8 1x8 tiles
on this running the length on the four rows
of posts in the center. I used 1x4 bricks
to make the sides.
I used another 4x6 plate and 4 1x3 tiles
to make the landing with 1x4 bricks as
sides. I intentionally left the last row
of posts empty as a way to pose mini
figures on if desired.
I used 2 2x2 ball and clamp (Lego #6039479
and #6043656) assemblies to mount the slide.
These allow for movement at any angle so
it is not necessary to use exact calculation
for the mount. Hinge pieces could also be
used. One connects the landing to the slide
and another connect the slide to the platform.
The ball/clamp which attaches the landing is
what gives it the height off the ground also,
so if you use a hinge you will also need a
brick to lift that landing.
The platform is supported by two columns of
11 2x2 bricks stacked. Note that if you
change the length of the slide or the angle
of slide, you will need to change the height
of the platform to accomodate. Experimenting
(like I did) is the best way to design you
own model. Optionally you can use a more
elaborate (sturdy) base.
The platform itself is 5 4x6 plates with a
few other plates as anchor and support. There
are also 1x4 bricks as walls.
I used 2 7x4x6 staircases (Lego #4277751) as
stairs to the platform, supported by a column
of 5 2x2 bricks stacked.
Monkey bars:
The top platform has 2 1x10 plates for each
side, anchored underneath by another 1x10
plate. 5 1x6 plates are used as the bars.
The 2x6 plate (far end) looks out of place,
but is needed to provide stability.
The ends are 2 1x8 plates stood upright and
connected with 3 1x10 plates. 1x6 plates
could replace the 1x10, but I did not have
enough 1x6 at the time of the build to do
this.
2 2x2 plate with side knobs connect each
side to the top platform. Note that using
a 2x2 adds stability over a 1x1
While plates work well for the side steps,
Technic cross axles might be better for
the top bars as would look more realistic.
These could easily be mounted along two
parallel Technic beams.
Swingset:
The swingset is entirely Technic pieces.
The side supports I used is an inverted
T shape instead of the common
inverted V. Either will do the
job, but I like the more open feel of
the single upright pole.
For each side I used a 15 hole Technic
beam as base. This length provides for
a no tip (front/back) result, though a
shorter beam could be used if desired.
A 3x3 T beam connects a 9 hole
beam upright to the base. There is a
small amount of wiggle since the upright
pole has only two snap connectors, but
it is still secure.
The top support is two 6mm cross axle
rods connected with a cross connector
as the center point. This connector
also serves as a spacer between the
two swings. You could add more axle
and connector segments to allow for
more swings if you like, but this may
require more support for the extra
weight.
Each swing is made up of a 5 hole beam,
2 6mm cross axle rods with cap, and 2
Technic cross connector with 90* hole.
The cross rods go through the last holes
on each end of the 5 hole beam with the
cap at the bottom to hold the beam (which
serves as the swing seat). These connect
to the connector.
Once the swing unit is built, it installs
on the top support by sliding the support
rod through the connector hole(s) until
it is flush with the top support center
connector. Use a cross axle spacer (cap)
to hold the end (away from the center
connector) from sliding back off, but
make sure it allows the swing to move
freely.
Once the swings are in place, the top
support rod goes through the top hole in
each side support and a cross cap holds
it in place.
To me this design seems to be very close
to the actual ratio of a playground swing.
You can adjust the swing height by either
using a different length of cross rod for
swing arms OR using different length of
side support upright beam. Note that if
you use an inverted V for side
support you will need longer beams to get
the same height as using the single pole
method.
Terrys Lego Wheelchair ramp
This ramp is constructed from plates
anchored together to form a long run
plate. The joint (ramp meets landing)
is a ball/cup piece, although hinges
could also be used. The ball/cup
joint allows the ramp to float at ANY
angle simply by adjusting the height
of the landing. Additional ramp
sections can easily be added by using
another ball/cup (or hinges) at the
joint between the landing and the next
section.
ADA specifies ramp rise of 1:12 ratio
(12 inch length for each 1 inch rise)
and a 60 inch landing. In terms of
Legos that would be a run of 14.4 posts
for each brick of rise (4.8 posts for
each plate of rise). If you choose to
render accurate results use this guide.
Since many models are not built to an
exact scale though you have some
flexibility in design.
Terrys Lego Church
Terrys garden and greenhouse
Terrys Lego lighthouse 2
Terrys Lego toboggan fun
Terrys Lego hotel
Terrys Lego sightseeing bus
Sightseeing bus:
Parts:
8 6x12 green plate (4541414)
7 4x6 tan plate (4114001)
32 1x2x5 clear brick (4624313)
2 1x10 tan plate
4 1x12 tan plate
2 1x2 to 2x1 gray hinge set
2 1x4 gray plate
1 2x4 gray plate
2 1x4 tan plate
1 1x2 steering wheel (9551)
1 1x10 black plate
16 1x4 black plate
23 1x2 white bench (486501)
30 1x2 white corner (623101)
4 single wheel with axle and plate assembled
Instructions:
Lay out four of the 6x12 green
plates to form a 12x24 base.
Connect these on the bottom with
six of the 4x6 tan plates, which
fit two across at each seam.
Position the base so that one end
of the base with twelve posts is
facing toward you (will be front
of bus) and the twenty four post
sides are traveling away from you.
Place five of the 1x2 benches
(Lego wall elements) in a line
on top of the 1x10 black plate
with the raised parts all facing
the same way. Place this assembly
across the second row of posts
from the back, leaving one post
on each end empty. Insure the
raised parts are toward the back.
This forms the back row of seats
on the bus.
Build fourteen seat units. Use
one 1x4 black plate with one 1x1
corner, one 1x2 bench, and one 1x1
corner on each plate with the
raised parts aligned forming half
of a rectangle shape. This forms
one seat unit, so do this fourteen
times.
Place the fourteen seat units on
the base in two columns and seven
rows. Each row has two seat units
and is placed two posts in front
of the seats behind it. Each
column has two seat units, placed
so there are two empty posts between
them and one empty post on each side.
Insure the raised part is toward the
back of the bus for each seat unit.
Build two seat units. Use one 1x4
black plate with two 1x2 benches
on each plate with the raised parts
facing the same way. This forms
one seat unit, so do this two times.
Place the two seat units on the base
in two columns and one row. The row
is placed two posts in front of the
seats behind it. The column has two
seat units, placed so there are two
empty posts between them and one empty
post on each side. Insure the raised
part is toward the back of the bus
for each seat unit.
Use one 1x4 tan plate and two 1x1
corners to form the drivers seat.
Place the two corners on the center
posts, leaving the end posts empty,
and insure the raised parts are
aligned to form half of a square shape.
Place the drivers seat assembly on the
base on the fourth row of posts from
the front of the bus. Place this on
the right side, leaving the rightmost
post empty, and insure the raised part
is toward the back of the bus. If
everything is positioned correctly, the
drivers seat should be three posts in
front of the most forward set of
passenger seats on the right column.
Use one 1x4 tan plate and one 1x2
steering wheel to form the steering
assembly. Place the steering wheel
on the center posts, leaving the end
posts empty.
Place the steering assembly on the
base on the second row of posts from
the front of the bus. Place this on
the right side, leaving one post empty,
and insure the steering wheel would be
facing the driver. This will leave
one row of empty posts between the
drivers seat and the steering wheel.
Place six of the 1x2x5 clear bricks
along the back row of posts on the
base (directly behind the last row
of passenger seats) to form the back
windows. Use one 1x10 tan plate to
connect these bricks at the top,
leaving the end post on each side
empty.
Place six of the 1x2x5 clear bricks
along the front row of posts on the
base to form the front windows. Use
one 1x10 tan plate to connect these
bricks at the top, leaving the end
post on each side empty.
Place nine of the 1x2x5 clear bricks
along the left side of posts on the
base, starting from the back windows
to form the left windows. Note that
this leaves four empty posts between
the front windows and the forward
left window (this is the door area).
Use two 1x12 tan plate to connect
these bricks at the top, starting
from the empty post on the back
window assembly and ending on the
empty post of the front window
assembly.
Place eleven of the 1x2x5 clear bricks
along the right side of posts on the
base, starting from the back windows
to form the right side windows.
Use two 1x12 tan plate to connect
these bricks at the top, starting
from the empty post on the back
window assembly and ending on the
empty post of the front window
assembly.
Place four 6x12 green plates on top
of the plates connecting the window
bricks. This forms the roof of the
bus.
Build the door portion of the door
assembly. Use one 4x6 tan plate.
Connect one 1x4 gray plate to the
underside of the tan plate, three
posts in from one of the four post
ends and spanning the entire four
post width. This creates one 3x4
and one 2x4 area on the underside
of the 4x6 plate. The hinges will
mount in the 2x4 area on the
underside of the plate. Place one
of the 1x2 female parts of the hinge
sets so that the two posts travel
from the edge of the 1x4 plate along
the post acceptors in the 2x4 area
to the edge of the 4x6 plate and
the hinge part extends beyond the
4x6 plate. This should be aligned
with the right edge of the 4x6 plate
(when the underside of the 4x6 is
facing you and the hinge is facing
downward). Place the other one of
the 1x2 female parts of the hinge sets
so that the two posts travel from the
edge of the 1x4 plate to the edge
of the 4x6 plate on the underside
2x4 area and the hinge part extends
beyond the 4x6 plate. This should be
aligned parallel with the other hinge
piece and be two posts to the left of
it, leaving the two leftmost post
acceptor areas empty.
Build the door holder portion of the
door assembly. Use one 2x4 gray
plate. Place the two male 2x1 male
hinge parts on top of the 2x4 plate
so they cover one four post side of
the 2x4 plate and both hinge parts
extend beyond the 2x4 plate facing
the same way (being two posts apart
from each other). Place one 1x4
gray plate on top of the hinge pieces
to anchor them.
Cpnnect the door and door holder
assemblies together by joining the
hinge pieces, insuring that when
attached the posts of both assemblies
are facing the same way. Note that
the assembly is NOT even. When
viewing the side with the posts, there
is an extra rightmost row of six posts
on the 4x6 plate.
To connect the door assembly to the bus,
position the bus so the door area is
facing you and position the door assembly
with the posts facing upward and the 4x6
plate facing toward you. Attach the 2x4
plate of the door assembly to the underside
of the bus base so that the hinge pieces
on that 2x4 plate are flust with the
edge of the bus base. The 2x4 plate fits
between the front of the bus base and the
edge of the 4x6 base connecting plates.
To open or close the door, place a finger
on the 2x4 plate below the door (to keep it
from coming loose) and raise or lower the
door using the action of the hinges. If
everything is positioned properly, when the
door is closed (against the bus) there is
only a small gap between the door and the
windows AND the door underside is facing
outward AND the front part of the door has
the hinge along its edge.
Finally, attach the wheels (with axles
assembled) to the underside of the bus base.
Place these on the 4x6 base connector plates
for better bus support. Insure the front
wheel is far enough back to not contact the
door in its lowered position. I used the
rear side of the first and last connector
plates, but they could be one post forward
if desired. In this build the bus rides low
to the ground so optionally plates or bricks
could be added between the wheels and bus
base to improve ground clearance.
Terrys Lego cow
Terrys Lego pine tree
Terrys Lego wind turbine
Wind turbine:
A wind turbine can be made in a
variety of ways and sizes. The
basic model will include a base,
trunk, ballast, swivel (a
turntable piece), and arms.
Below are the key points to pay
attention to.
The base and trunk support the
rest of the structure so it must
be sturdy enough for the weight
and movement.
The ballast extends both ways
(180*) from the trunk. One end
holds the turntable and arms,
which are usually mounted close
to the trunk. The other end of
the ballast contains weight to
counteract the weight of the
arms so as to balance the ballast
with equal weight on both sides
of the trunk.
The arms (also called wings, fins,
or propellers) should be designed
to balance on the swivel piece.
My model uses four arms of equal
weight spaced 90* apart. Optionally
use more or fewer arms, spacing them
uniformly apart (360* divided by
number of arms gives uniform angle,
so three arms would be 360/3 or 120*
spacing).
The model pictured above uses hinge
pieces to attach the arms to the
swivel, but the instructions below
uses plates as the arms do not need
to adjust, although optionally your
model can include them.
Some wind turbines have the ballast
also rotate to allow for changing
wind direction. So optionally your
model could use a turntable piece
to connect the ballast to the trunk.
Parts:
1 4x4 plate (or larger)
14 2x2 brick (or larger)
3 2x12 plate
1 1x2 plate with 90* mount 2x2 knobs (4654580)
8 2x2 brick (can be more or less)
1 2x2 turntable (368001 and 4540203)
12 2x8 plate (or whatever you like)
2 4x4 plate
Instructions:
Modify as need be.
Use 4x4 plate as base. Stack
the fourteen 2x2 bricks as one
tall column onto the center of
the base plate.
Build the ballast. Use one
2x12 plate for ballast base.
Place another 2x12 plate on
top of it, leaving one row
of two posts not covered.
Place the 1x2 base part of
the angle piece (1x2 with
90* 2x2 knobs) on those two
posts. Place another 2x12
plate on top of the second
using it to cover the angle
piece to anchor it.
Place the eight 2x2 bricks at
the end of the ballast opposite
the angle piece to form the
counter weight. These can take
any shape or size (should match
the weight of the arms), you may
make them resemble a motor for
the true effect of an electric
generator.
Place the 2x2 assembled turntable
onto the 2x2 side mount of the
angle piece on the ballast. Place
one 4x4 plate so the center has the
turntable posts.
Build four (or whatever number and
length you wish) arm assemblies.
Use two 2x8 plates to form a 2x16
arm and use a 2x8 plate to connect
them (2x4 on each plate). Do this
four times.
Connect the four arms to the 4x4
plate mounted on the turntable,
leaving the center posts (a 2x2
area) empty. Then place a 4x4
plate over the posts of the four
arms to anchor them. Note that
if you change the number of arms
you have to install the arms at
different angles, which can be
tricky in some instances.
Terrys Lego aquarium
Terrys Butterflies
Terrys first motor
Terrys Maze setup
Lego Cherry Picker
Terrys Lego Flag
Terrys Red Heart
Terrys BIG Lego Heart
Terrys BIG heart again
Terrys Lego Farm
Below are pictures of my Lego barn, silo, and
house which make up my small Lego farm. For the
purpose of this farm, imagine the dog is a COW
and not everything is to proper scale.
What Is It answer
In the future I want to build:
Baseball stadium
Skyscraper
Mini city with train and park
COMING SOON!
Page last updated: August 04 2017 20:35:03. Page visited: 1202
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